Crispy Crunchy Chiptastic

Today I had a craving for some chips, possibly something to do with the fact that yesterday was national fish and chip day in Ireland. Heston Blumenthal or should I refer to him as 'le bible'  ;-) has spent many long hours painstakingly finding out the best way to cook a myriad of foodstuffs and chips are one of those things. Some of the methods can be rather time consuming -but good things come to those who wait! The perfect chip didn't seem to be too much extra in terms of method and certainly not hours more time wise -so I thought lets do it. I wouldn't set out to do these for a large family -maybe wait til you're alone and you fancy a guilty treat....good to share too though!
  • Get a large saucepan of unsalted water on the heat and get it simmering
  • Cut some floury spuds (Maris Piper,  King Edwards, Golden Wonder, Rooster) into chips -best to use chips that are all around the same size
  • Cut them into a bowl of cold water and rinse them loads of times to get as much starch off as possible...Heston says keep the tap going for 5 mins to do this- I didn't want to waste so much water!
  • Add the chips to the hot water and cook until they are soft -but not falling apart
  • Drain from the water and cool on a wire wrack, once cooled transfer to fridge for 30 mins
  • Put your deep fat fryer on to 130'C and add your cooled chippies, cook until they start to look dry Heston says -it's hard to gauge this as they are covered in oil -but just don't let them get colour!
  • Next drain and cool and go back to the fridge for 30 mins
  • Turn your fryer up to 190'C and add your cooled chippies and cook until golden brown


Yes, these chips were very crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside and if you are a chip lover and you've got the time then why not try Heston's perfect chip recipe too!!



Going Potty For Mackerel

It's just coming up to mackerel season (June through to October) and this certainly brings a smile to my face. They are such a beautiful looking fish, with sparkling silvery blue tiger like stripes and their size isn't daunting if you have to gut them. If ever there was a recession busting fish it's name is mackerel! I have to talk about the environmental and health side of these fishies too.....there are a lot of problems in the world with food consumption- too many people and not enough fish (where's Jesus when we need him?!) and even the farmed fish, which seem like a solution of sorts, actually have more of an impact on regular fish stocks, because they are fed lots and lots of regular fishies. Lets make informed choices http://www.fishonline.org/fish-advice <----this website has an easy to use guide and a rating system for sustainability. Just click on the fish in question and they'll give you lots of information, such as the method by which they are caught and the levels of stock. Fish with a 1 or 2 rating are good to go but 3,4,5 should be left alone. In terms of pollution levels a good rule of thumb is the smaller the fish the better -so mackerel is a winner here, not to mention the good oils it contains to keep the ol' grey matter in good shape.



Mackerel is quite a meaty fish and you can team it with strong flavours such as horseradish and capers. Try one on the bbq with a nice potato salad to which you've added a dollop of horseradish sauce -nom nom! Or cook them under the grill, crisping the skin, serve with spuds roasted in the oven with quartered lemons and capers...don't forget to scoop out the cooked lemon flesh....MMnnn! Anyway, I had an urge to pot some up and spread it on some crunchy toast. Potting things is a pre-fridge method of conserving perishables and lordy lord it makes things really flippin tasty too.....nothing of course to do with the amount of butter involved!

This is a Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall recipe from The Guardian newspaper.
  • Preheat oven to 180C/gas 4. 
  • Take 4 mackerel put in a lightly oiled roasting dish. Insert a squashed clove of garlic and a bay leaf inside each fish. Season with pepper and a little salt, cook for 12-15 mins turning once halfway through.
  • To see if it's cooked through, gently lift some flesh away from the bone -it should come away easily.
  • After the fish have cooled, gently flake them into a bowl, set one of the cloves aside. Add 1/2 tsp cayenne, 1 tbsp parsley chopped, 1 tbsp thyme and 1 tsp ground mace.


Next to make clarified butter to seal the deal;
  • Melt 250g of butter in a pan on a low heat. Add your reserved garlic clove chopped finely. Once melted let the butter settle off the heat and it will separate into two layers. The milks solids will sink and form a whitish layer at the bottom and the rest will form a golden layer on top.
  • Pour 2/3 of the golden butter on to your flaked fish and gently toss. Also add the juice of half a lemon.
  • Place into a large kilner jar or individual ramekins and cover with a layer of the liquid gold butter. Allow to cool and place in fridge, covering the ramekins with cling film. Use ramekins within two days and jars within a week.
The loaves and the fishes.

Mouthwatering Mooreish Macaroooons

The macaron has something of an 'initiation' label attached to it and it had been on my mind lately. Half waking in the middle of the night muttering 'must make macrons ...must make maca.....zzz.zz...z' The other day when I saw them on MasterChef Australia making a tower (!!) of macarons, I thought right that's it -just do it. It felt a bit weird baking yesterday with the intense heat...yes 24 degrees is intense for us Irish! Elder flowers are bursting out all around right now so I decided that one of the fillings would be a kind of elderflower custard and it's partner would be a gooseberry 'jelly'. I also filled some with some lemon curd that I found at the back of the fridge and lastly I made a mint chocolate ganache....this was the winner!



Not bad for my first attempt...!
 To make the elderflower custard;
  • Take 150 mls of cream -add the flowers from 4 blooms of elder flowers -scald the mixture
  • Take two eggs yolks and whisk with about 10gs of caster sugar
  • Slowly pour the scalded milk onto the egg and sugar -whisking ALL THE TIME
  • When combined pass through a sieve to remove the flowers and return to the cooker and stir continuously over a low-med heat until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.  
To make the gooseberry 'jelly';
  • Take 10-15 frozen of fresh gooseberries, put into a pan over a medium heat with a tbsp of caster sugar
  • Simmer and soften, then strain through a sieve
  • Put back on the heat and reduce until you have a thick mixture -allow to cool

To make the chocolate peppermint ganache;
  • In a bowl break 75 gs of dark mint chocolate
  • Take 75 mls of cream -scald it
  • Pour the hot cream onto the chocolate and whisk vigorously until combined
  • Taste and add a few drops of peppermint essence until it is to your liking
  • Allow to cool in fridge



Folding the almonds into the 'meringue'

There are quite a few methods out there but the one I pretty much stuck to was http://www.giverslog.com/?p=1089  -In my serach for a recipe Ijust happened upon this lovely blog by AmberLee. The only thing I found that didn't work for me were the cooking times. My first batch cracked and I didn't understand this 'foot' thing that everyone was talking about -when you've piped them out onto a tray allow them to sit quietly, for 45 mins at least.... while they're meditating they form a skin -when they go into the oven this skin stops them from cracking by causing the macaron to 'lift' itself' forming a 'foot' and the air is released out at the 'ankle' of the 'foot' shall we say....! I then sort of used Adriano Zumbos cooking method, http://www.masterchef.com.au/recipes/macaron-tower-with-kalamata-olive-and-beetroot-and-raspberry-macarons.htm?target=dessert to try get over the cracking .... he suggests; oven on at 200'C then when you put the macrons in you turn the oven off for 10 mins, then you turn it up to 155'C for 9/10 mins! Mine were small enough and I found that just switching the oven off from 200'C and leaving them for 8-10 mins worked best -I didn't even need to turn it back up again. It's a matter of trial and error with your own oven I'm afraid -but err on the side of caution and just keep watching them. My second attempt didn't crack but browned (which is not correct) but the third attempt came out best. Phew -I was happy enough for a first time macaron maker!

Fun with food colouring -pretty natural one made from chlorophyll


Meditating macarons -allowing the skin to form!




Le Vin et Le Fromage et Le Trip Down Memory Lane

A very simple, humble supper of cheese and wine - the setting is breathtaking. A stone cottage towards the end of Bolas head, Ballinskelligs, Co. Kerry. We walked to the top of Bolas head earlier to fill our lungs with fresh, salty, sea air and now back at the cottage by the fire we fill our bellies.

Re-tracing my childhood memories yesterday we jaunted to Kenmare town - it was more beautiful than I remembered - although it has been 20 years! Some of it remained the same, but the food culture had well, let's say become multi-cultural. We ate lunch in The Bakery Vegetarian Cafe, it's owner is a half Isreali/ half Irish woman with staff from France, Germany and Spain. Taking a stroll down Henry St was a little like a magical mystery tour. A great little healthfood shop The Pantry, http://www.kenmare.eu/thepantry/ , a brilliant hardware store called Hallisseys, with amazingly good value in the kitchen section - where amongst other things I bought a giant wooden spoon for €5.50! We sniffed our way into The Truffle Pig, http://www.trufflepigkenmare.com/ a cafe/deli which offers a small but tasty and tempting variety of cheeses and meats, as well as handmade chocolates, cakes, savoury snacks and mains. We got some chocolates and cheeses... Comte and Bleu D'Auvergne.

Next serendipitous stop was The Vanilla Grape wine shop, http://www.vgwines.com/about ,  where we met the most helpful and sweet French owner Alain Bras. While watching A Very Hungry Frenchman recently, I had taken note of Raymond Blancs suggestion or rather 'order' that you must drink Vin Jeune with Comte cheese - malheuresment Alain didn't have any as it's quite a specialised, local wine. However he did offer us a glass from a different bottle which he had in the back, it had oxidised slighty - Alain said Vin Jeune has a similar taste. In the heel of the reel, after a nice chat we went with Alains suggestion of Chiroubles a Cru Du Beaujolais, to balance the strength of the Bleu D'Auvergne. En route home we stopped in Caherciveen at the fantastic healthfood shop The Aquarian, http://www.fororganichealth.com/about_us.php , where I couldn't resist getting a slice of a German goats cheese with fenugreek seeds running through it.... We feasted on the three cheeses with some Matzo crackers, occasionally drizzling them with some honey and washing it down with the Chiroubles ....(inhale slowly ...and ...exhale slowly...and ...smile...)

The view from the cottage...aaaahh sigh!
Sometimes the simplest of meals offers the most satisfaction - especially after a hard slog up and down a big hill!
Bleu D'Auvergne -it's craggy landcsape mirroring that of our surroundings

Tempting 3- Rose Buds, Preserved Lemons & Irish Buffalo Mozzarella


I will get to the last supper club post soon folks....once I am reunited with the black box recorder (aka camera). For now though a little blog on some new things that I bought in the last week. You know how you pass things on the shelves and you think oh yes I've heard of them -but I don't need them for tonights dinner well, I say flip it just buy it anyway! Because you'll be more likely to 'explore' the possibilities of it rather than buying it for a specific recipe. So the top three at three...... (I'm putting on my radio deejay voice for this)


Item Number 1- Dried Rose Buds;



I had never seen these before in my life -they are very cute (says my inner little girl) and they were also really cheap! About 3 euro for the container, now I'm not really sure what I'm going to do with them yet -cake decoration is an obvious choice and I do have a lovely Nigel Slater (...sigh!) recipe for a Lemon Pistachio Cake with rose water, almonds and lemon syrup icing and they would sit atop that very nicely indeed. It's from one of my favourite dip into books, The Kitchen Diaries. Thank you universe -I have been looking for a good reason to bake that cake again....watch this space! What else could I do?....I was watching The Hairy Bikers Bakation recently and somewhere in France they had gotten pink praline.....peut-etre, peut-etre.....! When I opened the jar there was a lovely smell of roses, but I'm not sure how much flavour they would impart...I ate one for a dare...it was ...well....Well, lets just say you wouldn't be snacking on them! F.Y.I. they were purchased in the Asian Supermarket on Drury St, Dublin 2, if you've never been you must go -it's an experience to say the least!




Item Number 2- Preserved Lemons;




Both myself and my mother are lemon fanatics and I can't believe I haven't tasted these before now! I bought them last week in the lovely Listons food shop on Camden St. Dublin, cost was a fairly reasonable E4.35. The smell is kinda strange, sort of like a cleaning product that has a lemon scent. But don't let that put you off, please, the taste is like a tangy, sweet ball of sunshine, with a mellow, almost limey undertone. So, obviously I haven't made a tagine otherwise I would have used these before now. Anyway, yesterday because the weather was so cold, so windy and so very Wintry, I wanted comfort food, so I decided that the fire would be lit and a chicken would go into the oven. I picked some thyme from le jardin to go with the butter beneath the breast skin and then as I chopped a fresh lemon for the cavity, the jar of preserved lemons flashed into my mind ....so I cut up a few pieces to accompany the butter and thyme....The result was really rather delicious! I also had some today with item number three....





Item number 3- Toons Bridge Irish Buffalo Mozzarella;





I heard about this a few months back on a News Talk radio feature. They've started stocking this in Listons where I found it today, price wise decent value at E3.35. I've eaten plenty of Buffalo Mozzarella in my time but never anything with as small a carbon footprint as this one! It's produced at Toons Bridge, West Cork, by farmer Johnny Lynch in conjunction with Toby Simmons of The Real Olive Company  Taste wise? -delicious, it has the sweet tang that you associate with buffalo milk. Texture wise -this was a little bit tighter and drier than other varieties I've had. I ate it with a simple salad and a little bit of preserved lemon on the side -nom nom. I would definitely recommend it, who would have ever thought that shopping 'local' would include Buffalo Mozzarella!!! Molto buono!


I think we should leap more often when we see something different on the shelf, maybe all of you are already leaping....well I'm joining in the fun now too. And on the link below you can see News Talk presenter Henry McKean  leaping onto a buffalo at Toons Bridge...
http://www.newstalk.ie/2011/programmes/all-programmes/moncrieff/henry-on-a-water-buffalo/

Let me know if you've any good recipes or ideas for any of the above :-)

The April Open Door Menu





So it's time for the next installment of The Open Door Supper Club. This time we are heading outside The Pale, to my home place, Kilkenny...there won't be any cats on the menu as this one is all veggie......Although I'm sure the carnivores will leave satisfied too! I do my best to source organic, seasonal and local produce.
To book your place send me a mail; aoife_co@hotmail.com -places are limited and remember it's first come first served.


The Open Door Supper Club

Shooting Stars
An Apple Champagne Cocktail

Crunch & Munch
Three Tasty Types of Fresh Baked Bread Sticks with Watercress Hummus & Wild Garlic Pesto

Seasons of Sushi
Nori Maki with Asparagus Tempura & Nori Maki with Samphire & Butternut Squash


Demeter & Dionysus
Greek Filo Pie with Foraged Nettles & Feta , Wild Mushroom Parcel served with an Organic Mixed Leaf Salad

Part & Parcel
Wild Mushroom Parcel with a kick of Ricard served with Thyme Toasted Sourdough Bread 

A Mountain & a Cold Hill 
Mini Mont Blanc with Chestnut Puree & Chocolate Snow.
A Mini Cone of Rhubarb Custard Ice Cream topped with Lemon-Pistachio Praline Crumbs

Small & Sweet
Herb Tea/ Builders Tea/ French Press Coffee/ Espresso -served with a selection of Petit Fours

April 21st.7.30pm
Suggested donation E35
Mayfield, Kilkenny

The Open Door Supper Club -round 1

It's been a week since my first supper club happened and it all seems like a dream now. I was really exhausted the following day but still managed to drag my sleepy head out the door to a foraging workshop in the Phoenix Park, more on that later. Wow...supper club- It does take a lot of work, between cleaning the house, shopping for all the ingredients, cooking... not to mention the washing up!! Thankfully my housemate bought a very, very large plastic basin in which to throw the dirty plates -a highly recommended supper club accompaniment! My brother helped me plate up and serve on the night. A helper is absolutely necessary, a helper and a very, very large plastic basin....And if you're doing one, get the helper to take photos of things too - a few things didn't get snapped before they were devoured, but sure you live and learn!

The order of service......

Fizzy Early
Prosecco & French lemonade with earl grey tea spheres
~
Nibbly Bits
A selection of sourdough bites to ‘amuse-your-bouche’
~
Pears & Graces
Red & white chicory boats filled with Wicklow & Cashel Blue cheese, pears, roasted hazelnuts & a quince syrup
~
Little Bo Peep
Slow cooked lamb shanks with sweet leeks & cannellini beans in a rich tomato sauce, with buttery moist mashed spuds.
~
Oranges & Lemons
Marmalade ice-cream sandwiches with a cup of lavender & lemon  wibbly wobbly tea
~
Closing Time Tea
Builders tea, herb teas, espresso or straight up black & a selection of petit fours




I started with a cocktail of Prosecco, French Lemonade & Earl Grey tea spheres. I had recently bought a molecular gastronomy kit & from this I adapted a recipe to create the spheres.


Prosecco, lemonade & earl grey tea spheres

For the nibbly bits I toasted thin pieces of sourdough bread in the oven, with a drizzle of olive oil & a sprinkle of fresh pepper & Maldon salt, on a medium heat until they were really crispy.  I topped them with the following;
Cucumber with a yogurt, tahinni & mint sauce
Guacamole with pomegranate
Buffalo Mozzarella, chili and lemon zest

These were all gone when I thought of the camera -I'll look at the silver lining here!

The starter comprised of chicory boats filled with Wicklow and Cashel Blue cheese, roasted hazelnuts, pear and a quince syrup. I made the quince syrup simply by melting the quince jelly in a pan, with a little bit of water -same way you'd make a jam glaze.




For the main course I braised and slow cooked lamb shanks. To save myself some time I cooked them the day before for. I used a Darina Allen recipe from her brilliant Forgotten Skills cookbook. Here follows the recipe for 4 people.

Braised Lamb Shanks; 
  • Turn oven on to 150'C/Gas 2
  • 4 lamb shanks - any excess fat removed, pierced twice to insert a sliver of garlic & 2/3 needles of rosemary both wrapped in half an anchovy -braise the shanks in olive oil on a hot pan
  • Remove lamb shanks to a casserole dish and add 225g of streaky bacon, I used pancetta -crisp this
  • Add 2 carrots, 2 celery sticks, 1 leek, 1 onion -roughly chopped -allow to brown a little
  • Add 225 ml of decent enough red wine -simmer off the alcohol
  • Add 300ml of chicken stock -I used veg.
  • Add two strips of dried orange peel -I used fresh along with a sprig of thyme, 2 sprigs of rosemary & two bay leaves
  • Pour the veg. & stock mixture in around the shanks and cook for 2-2&1/2 hours
  • In the meantime make your tomato sauce, 110g chopped onions sauteed, only after they have sauteed do you add 1 clove garlic
  • Next add 900g of tomatos -I used passata, 2tbsp of two of the following herbs (thyme, parsley, marjoram, basil, lemon balm) Salt, pepper & a little bit of sugar to taste.Cook for 30 mins on a low- heat with the lid on.
  • When the lamb is ready, add a tin of cannellini beans to the tomato sauce and add to the casserole dish -cook for a further 45-60mins


I served the shanks with 'oxymoron' spuds -fluffy, buttery mashed potato....yummy!
Dessert was to have the most 'play' on my little Victorian twist - but what to do? Afternoon tea was born in the Victorian era. I knew I wanted to make marmalade ice cream, as my brother had made some lovely marmalade a few weeks back. But I couldn't decide how to serve it and what to serve it with. Eventually I settled on marmalade ice cream sandwiches, using shortbread and a fragrant jelly, served in tea cups. I used Jamie Olivers' shortbread recipe.

 Shortbread;
  • Oven to 150'C/Gas 2 note- this makes a large quantity of dough.
  • Cream 250g butter & 125g of caster sugar, I used icing sugar as it's easier when you don't have a food processor like moi! 
  • Add 250g of plain flour & 125g of semolina or cornflour -I used cornflour
  • I rolled them out on a floured surface & cut out the right sized square for me, place on a non-stick baking tray, prick with a fork -bake for 15 mins or until golden
  • I had dough left over -so I put some lavender flowers in & cut out small star shapes for petit fours, cook for less time, 10 mins, depending on your oven.



Basic Custard Ice-Cream;
  • Serves 5
  • 200ml milk & 200ml of cream -into a sauce pan & scald them, this means waiting for bubbles to appear on the sides but not 'boiling' the mixture.
  • Take two egg yolks to which you add 50g icing sugar
  • Very slowly add the hot milky cream to the egg mixture -stirring with a whisk all the time
  • When all mixed together, put back on a low-ish heat and stay with it, stirring constantly, until the custard has formed -you know this has happened when the mixture thickens enough so that it coats the back of your wooden spoon.
  • Now remove from the heat & allow to cool. Speed this up by transfering to a glass bowl or another container and when most of the heat is gone put it into the fridge to chill. This helps when you put it into your ice-cream maker.
  • Pour into your ice-cream maker, when it's finished in there scoop about 3 dstp of marmalade in & place in your freezer.
  • If you want to make a vanilla custard, take a vanilla pod, slice it and scrape the seeds out, put the seeds into the cream & milk, along with the pod and scald it. Once you've made the custard pass it through a sieve to remove the pod and any bits of cooked  egg.
  • After 2/3 hours & intermittent stirring, I popped the mixture into a well washed juice carton.This was to be my mould, I wrapped it in cling film & put it back into the freezer for the night.
Lavender & Lemon Wibbly Wobbly Tea;
  • Fills 10 tea cups
  • Take 10 cups of water, 10 tsp dried lavender flowers, 12 tsp caster sugar, juice of 5 bergamot lemons & 2 regular lemons (6 regular if you can't get bergamot) place in a saucepan.
  • Allow the mixture to reach a simmer so that the lavender infuses, leave to cool and strain out the bits 'n' pieces.
  • Sprinkle over 12 tbsp of agar-agar flakes (Japanese setting agent -available in health food shops and food specialist shops)
  • Give a quick whisk at the beginning, then wait until it starts to simmer & whisk for about 3 mins. Or as per packet instructions.
  • Pour into moulds & allow to cool, refrigerate over night.



I had some lemon curd which I swirled through whipped cream & blobbed on top to serve.


For the petit fours I used my lavender shortbread, leaving some as they were but half dipping the rest in dark chocolate. It's a really great combination & I would definitely recommend the biscuits as a gift for someone. I also made truffles, my friend had given me a bar of Seed & Bean coconut raspberry chocolate so I used that -although the flavours were very subtle so I wouldn't use that particular bar for that purpose again. But to eat alone -very nice!



So the first one is done and dusted. It was exhausting, exciting and eye opening. Will i do it again ? For sure!